How to paint kitchen cabinets like a pro, transform your tired, dated kitchen with my step by step guide on hand painting kitchen cabinets the right way. A Professional, brushless finish, requires, patience, good paint and the right tools. The following method applies to (laminate, veneer, wood & mdf) kitchen cabinets.

Can You Paint Cabinets Without Removing Doors?

Step 1: You may be tempted to leave the kitchen cabinets and door faces in place while painting. Don’t, you must remove them, it’s a simple step that only takes a few minutes. Most cabinet doors are hung using Concealed Hinges, rather than removing the hinge, instead, detach the door by removing the screws fixed to the door.

Always remember to label the door after removing. I label each door at the hinge recess, (1, 2, 3, 4, etc,) using a marker. Place the corresponding number on the inside of the cupboard using a strip of masking tape, next to the hinge. This will ensure all doors are re-fitted in the same position as before.

Hand Painting Kitchen Cabinets

Keep all screws that you remove safe, a simple sealable freezer bag is a great place to store any fittings.

Related: Painting a Door Without Brush Marks

What Is The Best Way To Clean Grease Off Kitchen Cabinets?

Step 2: Kitchens are havens for grease build up, greasy, oily surfaces are impossible to paint! Failing to remove any grease or oil from surfaces will result in the paint failing to adhere to the surface.

I cannot stress enough the importance of thoroughly cleaning all surfaces that you wish to paint. So how do I remove stubborn grease from kitchen cabinets?

Zinsser Professional Degreaser Stain Remover, a simple but effective spray. Disperse the product over the surface, leave to soak for a couple of minutes and wipe clean, No scrubbing required.

Repeat the process until clean, a good indicator is to use a clean paper towel. Once the towel is clean after wiping down the cabinet or drawer, the surface is free from grease.

Prepare The Area For Painting

Step 3: Before you commence any painting, it is a good idea to prepare an area that you can use for drying. Even a small kitchen can have as many as  4 – 6 cabinets and 3 – 6 drawer fronts. Once painted, they will need to be a placed in dust free area to fully dry.

In the past I have either opted for painting all cabinets and drawer fronts using a customers spare room. Alternatively if space is limited, I would remove the cabinets and drawers and paint them at my workshop.

You maybe already be wondering when painted, where do you rest the doors and drawers. Most people don’t own a professional drying rack, so a great tip is to use, paint tins or blocks of wood. These will act as mini platforms keeping the cabinets and drawers off the floor while they dry.

Sanding Kitchen Cabinets For Painting

Step 4: Now that the cabinets are clean and free from oil, grease and dirt. The next step in the process is to abrade (score) the surface using sandpaper. Sanding causes small micro abrasions helping the paint stick to the surface.

Through experience I have found rather than using traditional sandpaper in sheet or role format. Instead I use Foam Sanding Blocks, why, they mold to the contours of the cabinet doors and drawers. Available in various grades, (100, 120, 150, 180 etc), the smaller the number, the coarser the granularity, the higher the number the finer sanding effect.

Start by using 100 Grade Foam Sanding Block, sand each surface thoroughly ensuring not to miss any sections. Then using a clean damp cloth remove any dust and leave to dry.

Filling Gaps In Kitchen Cabinets

Step 5: The last stage of preparation before painting is to fill any noticeable gouges, holes or gaps. Maybe you have decided to change the style of hardware on the cabinet doors, these will require new holes drilled, leaving the old holes to be filled.

Slight gaps in cabinet molding can become very noticeable once painted, so must also be filled. I use a combination of Toupret Wood Filler and Painters Caulk to fill any unsightly holes or gaps.

Related: How to fills gaps with caulk

Once any holes are filled, leave to dry, rub down with your 100 grade foam sanding block and wipe away any dust with a damp cloth.

Priming Kitchen Cabinets

Step 6: Now that have we cleaned, filled and sanded all cabinet and drawer faces, it’s time to apply paint. Your first coat of paint is a primer coat, skip this step and your heading for disaster. A good primer will ensure that your top coats of paint adhere to the surface ensuring a long lasting finish.

My go to primer to ensure maximum adhesion is Zinsser BIN Shellac Primer Sealer. Shellac based primers are the most durable and provide the best adhesion, ideal for painting kitchen cabinets or furniture.

Another great benefit of shellac primers is there ability to cover stubborn stains, (water, smoke, tar, felt tip, crayon).

Related: How to paint over water stains

You can apply the primer using a brush or roller, I use both, a Two Inch Angular Brush for molding and corners, then a 4 Inch Microfibre Roller Sleeve for the faces and edges.

Zinsser BIN (primer) is an unusual type of paint to apply, milky in color and a little watery. You will notice when you apply the paint using a brush, per dip, coverage is poor. This is due to the natural grip the paint has to the surface, it doesn’t travel far.

WARNING: Place dust sheets down before painting, zinsser primer is difficult to remove and requires a strong thinner to remove any spilt paint. I recommend Zinsser Brush Cleaner and Restorer, or alternatively alcohol will also work.

Hand Painting Kitchen Cabinets

Don’t be concerned about an even uniformed coverage, especially when using a brush. The object is simply to cover any bare wood with the primer. I would recommend using a brush and roller combined, for ease of use.

Once you have one side painted wait until touch dry, then flip and repeat on the other side.

Related: Top 16 Essential Painting Tools

How Many Coats Of Primer On Cabinets

Ideally for a professional finish, I am going to recommend two coats of primer before applying your top coats of paint. Zinsser BIN is touch dry in 15 mins and recoatable in 45 mins under normal drying conditions.

Once fully dry, rub down all kitchen cabinets and drawer fronts using 120 Grade Foam Sanding Block. You should notice a significant difference after sanding. Remember to remove all traces of dust using a Painters Dusting Brush and damp cloth.

How To Paint Kitchen Cabinets

Step 7: The last step to hand painting kitchen cabinets, the final coats of paint. Below I have recommended the best paint for kitchen cabinets. I have personally used both paint brands for painting kitchens and furniture.

Both paint brands give a beautiful, hardwearing, semi matt finish (eggshell). Below I have included paint tips to achieving a professional brushless finish on kitchen cabinets.

How To Paint Kitchen Cabinets

Painted using Tikkurila Empire Furniture Paint (eggshell)

Tips For Painting Kitchen Cabinets

1) Hand painting kitchen cabinets is intricate work, I would recommend that your mini roller sleeve is new, especially for the final coats of paint. Your brush should be clean and of good quality, an inferior brush will only leave prominent brush marks through the paint.

2) Pour the paint into a Mini Paint Scuttle, which can be used with both brush and mini roller.

3) Try to set up a workstation for placing the cabinet & drawer fronts onto while painting with 360 degree access. Professional kitchen painters use a turntable, also referred to as a Lazy Susan. This allows the painter to maintain the same position while rotating the item to be painted.

4) There is a sequence to painting a kitchen or drawer face. Start by painting the edge using your 4 Inch Microfiber Roller. Then use your Angular Brush to paint any molding, paying particular attention to the corners. Finish the remaining panels using the microfibre smooth roller.

When laying off paint, the amount of pressure applied through the brush plays an important role. The less pressure, the less of an impression the bristles will make in the paint.

Follow the steps above and you can transform your old kitchen cabinets (laminate, veneer, wood, mdf) with paint. The same steps should be followed when painting, trim, kickboards, cooker hoods, architrave in your kitchen.

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This blog is a personal blog written and edited by me (Andrew Firth). For questions about this blog, please contact

Some posts contain Amazon affiliate links. I may earn a small commission when those links are clicked on and a product is purchased. There is no additional costs to you.

Are you searching for a masonry filler that is 1) Effortless to mix 2) Easy to shape 3) Doesn’t shrink or flash 4) Easy to sand, well your search is over. The best exterior filler for masonry is, Toupret Touprelith F Exterior Masonry Repair Filler.

Available in 1.5kg box, 5kg bag, 15kg bag

Below I discuss why I recommend toupret and how to use it for best results.

Toupret Touprelith Exterior Filler

When looking for a good exterior filler, there are a few properties that make toupret exterior filler stand out from others.

1) Mixability, toupret exterior filler mixes effortlessly, no lumps or specialist equipment required.
2) Shrinkage, Toupret Masonry Filler does not shrink or slump even when filling large, deep holes.
3) Flashing, the term used when the newly painted area appears as a patch or discolouration. Toupret touprelith doesn’t flash and doesn’t require priming before painting.

NOTE: It is not unusual that newly painted patches of filler will take longer to dry. Once dry there should be an even distribution of colour over the area.

4) Sandable, most exterior fillers can be notoriously difficult to sand. The good news is that Toupret Filler is a pleasure to sand, although the filler once dry is hard, you can still sand and shape the filler as required.

Related: Which Decorators Filler Is Best

Mixing Instructions For Toupret Exterior Filler

Below are tips to ensure that your toupret exterior filler is mixed to the correct consistency before application. Take a Mini Paint Scuttle, and add just enough water to cover the bottom of your scuttle. Next add a little powdered exterior filler and using a 3 Inch Flex Jointing Knife mix the filler with the water.

Mixing the filler is fast and easy, use a circular or figure eight motion for 30 – 45 secs and you should have a smooth consistency.

Keep the mixture dry at first, add water gradually, a little water goes along way. It’s very easy to add too much water which ends up with the filler being to runny to work with. By adding the powdered filler in small increments ensures that you don’t waste filler.

The ideal consistency is a medium firmness, if you turn your flex knife upside down, the filler should stick. Once mixed Toupret Touprelith Exterior Filler has a working time of 30 mins. Depending on the temperature and humidity in the air will influence how fast your mixture drys out.

Related: How To Repair Cracks In Ceilings

What Can Masonry Crack Filler Be Used For

As a painter and decorator I use Toupret products on a daily basis. Their powdered exterior filler can be used on a variety of substrates to include: (brick, concrete, cement, breeze block, stone). Please note that you cannot use toupret touprelith exterior filler on sandstone due to the moisture content within the stone. 

If you do need to repair porous substrates like sandstone, then opt for Toupret Murex.

In the past I have used Toupret Touprelith to repair concrete floors, window sills, rendered walls and cracks in masonry. You might be interested in a previous video where I demonstrate how to mix toupret filler and skim brickwork. 

Best Exterior Filler For Masonry Video

How To Use Toupret Exterior Filler

1) Ensure that you have the correct consistency before starting. If the filler is to wet, it will slide off your filling knife, to dry and it can be hard to shape.

2) When applying the filler, I find it helps to work of a larger 6 Inch Flex Filling Knife  or a Plastering Trowel. Then use another 3 inch or 6 inch flex knife to apply the mixed filler to the substrate.

3) If your planning on painting the area being repaired, ensure that the filler is completely dry. When wet toupret is dark grey in colour. As the filler dries it turns light grey, large cracks and holes that have been filled will take longer to dry.

4) When repairing uneven masonry surfaces the use of a wet brush helps to push the filler into the contours of the surface.

5) Sanding the filler once dry, use 80 Grade Sandpaper to remove the excess and then drop down to 120 Grade Sandpaper to finish.

6) If your applying toupret exterior filler in direct sunlight, wet the surface area on which the repair is being made. This stops the substrate sucking the moisture out of the filler to quickly.

7) After 30 mins depending on the drying conditions, your mixture may become to dry. To remedy this, add a little water and remix, then recommence the repair.

8) Wash all tools with water after you have finished.

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This blog is a personal blog written and edited by me (Andrew Firth). For questions about this blog, please contact

Some posts contain Amazon affiliate links. I may earn a small commission when those links are clicked on and a product is purchased. There is no additional costs to you.

A popular question asked by many diy enthusiasts, which decorating filler is best? During my time as a painter and decorator I have tested many interior and exterior fillers. Today I am going to discuss one filler that I and most professional decorators use on a daily basis.

Best Interior Decorating Filler

Although there is a wide range of interior fillers designed to repair cracks and holes in plastered walls and ceilings. Most unfortunately in my opinion are inadequate at best. Why you might ask, well, when looking for a really good interior filler there are a few properties that are essential.

1) The powdered filler must mix easily with minimum effort, ensuring a smooth consisting, (no lumps). 2) Workability, the filler must be easy to spread and have a long enough working time that the amount mixed can be used up before starting to dry out. 3) Drying time, the filler must dry fast once applied to the surface  4) The final point is absolutely essential, the filler must be easy to sand without having to use an orbital sander to get the job done.

So which decorating filler is best and meets all of the criteria above. The answer, Toupret Interior Filler is hands down the best decorators filler on the market. I have been using the filler for years and highly recommend it, due to the nature of my profession, I purchase in bulk, 5kg bags.

How To Repair Cracks In Ceilings

How Do You Mix Filler For Walls?

When it comes to actually mixing your filler whether its for interior or exterior surfaces. There is a simple, fast, mess free way of mixing filler. Before you start there are a few items below that will come in very handy, let me explain why.

1) Toupret Interior Filler
2) Flexible Mixing Bowl
3) Flex Filling Knife 1 inch

Toupret interior filler comes in both a powdered and ready mixed format. Toupret Interior Filler (powder) comes in a 2kg box, 5kg bag and 10kg bag, while the Toupret Ready Mixed Filler comes in a 330 gram tube or 1.5 kg tub. The only downside of the ready mixed version, is that drying times are double that of the powdered version.

Mixing the powder filler is really easy, using a flexible mixing bowl pour some filler into the bowl. Add a little water to the powder and using your 1 Inch Flex Knife mix the filler until you achieve a smooth consistency.

The ideal consistency is smooth, creamy with medium firmness. The filler should stick to your flex knife when turned upside down.

Top 16 Essential Painting Tools

How To Use A Powdered Filler

Once you have mixed your filler to the correct consistency. The next step is to apply the filler to your walls and ceiling, filling any (cracks, voids, gouges, holes). The easiest method that I have found is to use two flex knifes, Purdy Flex Filling Knife 3 inch and a Purdy Flex Filling Knife 6 inch.

I use the larger knife to hold the mixed filler and the smaller 3 inch flex knife to work with. Always squeeze the filler into the crevice or hole ensuring the area is completely filled. Then wipe of any access with your flex knife, deep cracks and holes will need a second fill as it’s very difficult to successfully fill large holes and cracks in one pass.

At times when skimming over larger areas, switch or plug sockets for example. I will use the large 6 inch flex knife as the larger blade stays in contact with outer surface of the wall surrounding the hole, when removing excess filler.

Please note: there are limitations to filling large, deep holes with Toupret Interior Filler. Although the data sheet indicates that there are no limitations to the depth that can be filled. Realistically if your attempting to fill a large void left by a double plug socket that has now been removed.

It would be unrealistic and a waste of filler to attempt to fill a hole of this size and depth. Instead, use any of the two products below to fill 95% of the hole.

1) Ronseal Smooth Finish Big Hole filler
2) Cementone General Purpose Mortar Grey

Ensure that the masonry repair filler remains 3-5 mm shy from the surface. Once dry, skim the remaining 3 -5 mm with Toupret Interior Filler.

How To Paint A Room Like A Professional

Toupret Filler Review

If you type the phrase “which decorating filler is best” into google, you’ll be amazed by the number of results 61,300,000 to be precise. I hope that I have clarified the question, most professional decorators swear by Toupret products and for good reason.

Their interior filler has many benefits which make it the choice of many professional tradesmen. Below are some additional benefits that you may not be aware off.

1) Toupret interior filler doesn’t flash and doesn’t need primed before painting. Flashing is when light reflects against a freshly painted surface to create a shimmering “flashing” effect. This can happen when using an inferior filler, unless primed before painting, the patch of filler will show through once the paint is dry.

Unlike other fillers, you can paint directly over toupret filler without having to prime the fresh patch or patches of filler.

2) Shrinkage, this can also be a common problem with other fillers. As the filler dries, it shrinks meaning that even small holes, cracks will need filled for a second time before painting. Toupret interior filler will not shrink or slump when drying.

3) Toupret interior filler is referred to as a one coat fill. What does this mean, in most cases, cracks, scrapes, gouges and holes can be filled with one coat.


This blog is a personal blog written and edited by me (Andrew Firth). For questions about this blog, please contact

Some posts contain Amazon affiliate links. I may earn a small commission when those links are clicked on and a product is purchased. There is no additional costs to you.

The compensation received will NEVER influence the content, topics or posts made in this blog. The views and opinions expressed on this blog are purely mine.

If you have ever wondered how to paint a door (interior or exterior) without leaving brush marks? then continue reading. There are various steps in achieving a professional brushless finish. Painting a door without brush marks is a relatively simple process as long as you follow the advice below.

Painting a Door Without Removing It

Should I remove the door before painting? there is a simple answer to the question. Are you confident that you can rehang the door after you have finished painting. Do you have the available space and equipment (Saw Horses) to rest the door onto? If the answer is NO, then leave the door where it is, you can achieve a professional finish without removing the door.

I generally do not remove doors before painting, unless 1) The door needs repaired 2) The door is being stripped, all existing paint removed using a Heat Gun.

What you will need though, when painting a hung door is a Door Wedge to stop the door from swinging back and forth. Also ensure that you remove the door hardware (door handles), if your a novice painter, mask off the hinges with Scotchblue Masking Tape.

How To Paint a New Door

All wooden doors (bare wood) will need to be primed before any further coats of paint can be applied. This is an essential step that must not be skipped. Primer paint allows the tops coats of paint to adhere to the surface better. Primer is designed to seal new wood preventing the underlying wood from prematurely absorbing the solvents in the finishing paint. Priming bare wood also stops knots from bleeding through your new paint work.

On new wooden doors I use Zinsser Bullseye 123 Primer Sealer. Apply two coats, dilute the first coat of primer with water at a ratio of 10:1. This will allow the primer to soak thoroughly into the grain, sealing the wood. Before applying the second coat of primer, sand the door using a Foam Sanding Block 120 Grade.

Brush away all dust and prime the door again with the final coat, (do not dilute). Your door should be smooth to the touch, ready for the next coat of paint which is your undercoat.

Zinnser Bullseye 123 Water Based Primer can be applied with a brush, roller or sprayed. I use both a brush and mini roller for painting doors, regardless of whether I’m using a, (primer, undercoat or finishing coats). Using a brush and roller combination is fast and provides a superior finish, free from brush marks. I’ll explain more on the technique involved in painting a door without brush marks a little later.

Best Tools For Painting a Door

You really don’t need many tools to achieve a great finish on doors. Below is small list of tools that I use daily at Clear Cut Painting.

Painting A Door Without Brush Marks

Part of the process to avoiding unsightly brush marks is painting your door in the correct order ensuring even paint distribution. Most doors either have 2, 4 or 6 panel configurations, the process I’m going to explain applies to all variations.

You will notice in the diagram below arrows pointing to sections on the door, both brush and roller are used depending on the portion of the door being painted.

1) The first area to paint is the door jamb (door jambs are the sides of the door frame that run vertically). Use your brush to paint approximately a 1 inch section top and bottom, then roll the remainder of the edge with your mini roller.

2) Next are the beveled edges surrounding each panel, use your Purdy Brush to paint this area ensuring that you paint with the grain. Avoid using to much paint as it will pool in each corner of the lower bevel.

3) Now that all the beveled edges are painted, use your mini roller to paint the face of the panels, remember always working with the grain.

4) Lastly are the panels that create the frame of the door, use just the mini roller to finish applying the paint. Use long, fluid strokes with an even amount of pressure to create a spray like finish.

Always thoroughly sand the the door after applying each coat of paint. Sanding helps to key the surface helping the next layer of painting stick to the surface. Sanding between coats will ensure a spray like finish. Use a Painters Dusting Brush in combination with a damp cloth to remove all dust before painting.

How many coats of paint will a new door require? Painting a new wooden door like a pro will require 4 – 6 coats of paint,  (primer, undercoat, top coats). Previously painted doors will require 3 – 4 coats of paint (undercoat, topcoats), but may still require priming depending on the circumstances.

Painting a Door Tips and Tricks

If there was just one additional tip to painting doors without brush marks. I would highly recommend using a product called Owatrol Floetrol Paint Additive. It’s essentially a paint conditioner that improves the flow of paint, helping to keep a wet edge. Floetrol is designed to be used with water based paint products for the purpose of eliminating brush and roller marks.

Paint conditioners give both professional painters and novices extending working time. Most paints are self leveling to a degree, which can be improved with, good brushes, the right choice of roller cover, good technique and paint additives to help with paint flow, (laying off).

Laying off: the redistribute of paint in a more uniform fashion. This technique can be used with both brush and roller, personally from experience, I find that when painting a door without brush marks. Use your brush to access the areas a mini roller cannot and finish with a Ultra Smooth Mini Roller Nap in combination with a paint conditioner.

This blog is a personal blog written and edited by me (Andrew Firth). For questions about this blog, please contact Some posts contain amazon affiliate links. I may earn a small commission when those links are clicked on and a product is purchased.
There is no additional costs to you. The compensation received will NEVER influence the content, topics or posts made in this blog. The views and opinions expressed on this blog are purely mine.

Painting over flaking paint is one of the most common problems I face on a daily basis. Patches of paint that are either, flaking, peeling or completely failed to adhere to the plaster. Before we attempt to fix peeling paint, we first must better understand what causes flaky paint.

What Causes Peeling Paint?

There are several reasons for paint flaking or peeling away from the original surface. 1) Poor preparation, walls and ceilings have not been mist coated with the correct ratio of water to paint 2) Damp or elevated moisture levels in the plaster 3) Water based paint on top of oil based paint.

Poor preparation accounts for the majority of issues, when it comes to peeling paint. Failing to mist coat freshly coated plaster correctly, will cause paint on the surface to peel.

Painting Over Flaking Paint

  1. Remove as much of the loose paint as possible using a flexible scraper with a good sharp edge.
  2. Prime the affected area with Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 or Zinsser Gardz High Performance Sealer.
  3. Skim coat the area with a good quality filler, Toupret Interior Filler is perfect for the task.
  4. Sand the area with Aluminum Oxide Sandpaper 120 grade until the edges of the original paint are starting to show through.
  5. Prime the fresh filler and surrounding edges with Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3
  6. Apply two top coats of paint

How To Paint Over Flaking Emulsion

There may be the occasion when there is so much flaking paint that the entire area, wall or ceiling may need stripped back to the original plaster. Painting over flaky patches or paint chips can be easily rectified, larger areas must have all the peeling paint removed before attempting to repaint.

This can prove problematic as some of the paint will refuse to scrape off and the use of a Heat Gun must be used to soften the stubborn paint to allow for removal. If you don’t own a Heat Gun, I recommend purchasing one with adjustable temperature, the DeWalt 1800W Heat Gun with 240V Dual Air Flow is an excellent example.

How To Seal Flaking Paint On Walls

Painting over flaking paint is a relatively simple process if you follow the steps above. The use of a primer helps to seal the exposed plaster and tack down the edges of paint after scraping.

As there are discrepancies between the original layers of paint and exposed plaster, skimming the affected area is required. This will help to level out the two surfaces.

Use a medium to fine grade sandpaper, coarse sandpaper will leave deep scores in the filler that will show through after the top coats have been applied. A top coat of primer helps to seal the filler and cover any exposed plaster after sanding.

When applying the final top coats, it is best to paint the entire area of wall or ceiling to avoid visibly seeing the patch.

Peeling Paint Warning

Always be cautious when scraping and sanding paint on older houses built before 1978, as there is an increased likelihood of any painted surfaces containing lead. It is good practice to wear a Respirator Mask when there is a risk of dust particles entering the lungs. These can be easily purchased at any local building merchant.

How to repair peeling paint on plaster walls, Contact Andrew on 07419998922 or Email, to claim your Free no obligation Quotation.

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Some posts contain Amazon affiliate links. I may earn a small commission when those links are clicked on and a product is purchased. There is no additional costs to you.


Did you know that painting matt over silk emulsion is not recommended and can lead to disastrous results. If you search the term “Paint Matt Over Silk” into google. You may be shocked by the amount of results returned, 6,470,000 to be precise.

That’s a lot of people who have either made the mistake of painting matt over silk emulsion. Or simply researching the topic before painting. Regardless of their intention, be WARNED. Do not paint matt over silk without taking the necessary steps before hand.

Painting over vinyl silk

For anyone who has had the misfortune of painting matt over silk will be well aware of the outcome, cracked walls. Due to the waterproof, gloss effect of silk, matt paint cannot adhere to the surface and when dry, cracks giving the effect of a dried river bed. Matt emulsion cannot stick to the surface of silk without the correct preparation.

Painting matt over silk emulsion

There are two ways that you can successfully paint over silk with matt emulsion paint. 1) Key the surface, meaning, to use materials such as sandpaper, wet-or-dry paper or sanding discs, to smooth down and remove the gloss surface prior to painting.

Use 100 grade sandpaper and ensure that all of the surfaces that have silk are sanded thoroughly. Take care not to miss any sections as these can show through with a cracking effect. The use of a hand sander or orbital sander will speed up the process.

This can be time consuming, depending on the size of the affected area, but is very effective, ensuring that the matt paint can adhere to the surface.

2) The second method is by painting the walls with a good primer, Zinsser Bulls Eye 123 Water Based Primer is perfect for the job. Zinsser primer creates a paintable surface for which matt can adhere, avoiding the dreaded cracking affect. You don’t have to sand the walls before using Zinsser primer as it sticks to all surfaces.

Zinsser Application Information

Available : 500ml, 1L, 2.5L, 5L, 10L
Coverage : 10m per Litre
Touch Dry : 30 minutes
Full Cure : 7 days
Recoatable : 1 hour

The only downside is that Zinsser Bulls Eye 123 Primer Sealer is not cheap. Painting a large area that has been previously painted in a silk finish with Zinsser primer, could work out expensive.

What method you choose is down to personal preference. Sanding the walls or ceiling costs very little, but is time consuming, unless you have access to a wall sander. The second method, priming the area with Zinsser Bullseye 123 Primer is quick but costly depending on the size of the area.

Additional Articles you may be interested in: 


This blog is a personal blog written and edited by me (Andrew Firth). For questions about this blog, please contact

Some posts contain Amazon affiliate links. I may earn a small commission when those links are clicked on and a product is purchased. There is no additional costs to you.