One of the most popular trends to extending the functionality of your garden, is by adding wooden decking. It not only increases the value of your property, but extends your living and play space. Both adults and children can benefit from a custom fitted wooden deck. Today’s article covers deck maintenance, “how to treat decking timber”, new and old.

How To Treat A New Wooden Deck

Have you just had some new decking installed? before winter sets in ensure you protect the wood from our harsh UK weather. The good news is that most decking timber is pressure treated to protect the wood, this doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t treat the timber within the first few weeks of installation.

The advantage of treating a new deck before it gets a lot of use is 1) Its generally clean, free from dirt and grease 2) You don’t need to pressure wash the timber before treating.

The image below is a perfect example of a new decking installation, the wood is dry and ready to receive its first coat of Decking Oil. If your timber is dark green in colour and feels damp to the touch or beads of water lie on the timber, similar to the surface of a freshly waxed car, meaning that there is a waxy residue on the surface.

Wait before applying your decking oil, the timber must be dry, this will ensure the wood soaks up the decking paint.

New decking installation ready to treat

Painters Tool List

Below are the tools and decking treatment required to treat your new wood deck.

Use your 3 inch brush to paint any areas that are not accessible with the mini roller (edges, corners, rails). The Wooster Brush Holder enables the brush to be attached to the extension pole, allowing the user to stay in an upright position while painting.

When all the (edges, corners, rails) are treated, detach the wooster brush holder and attach your Purdy Jumbo Roller Frame with your 1/2 Inch Roller Cover. Work from the furthest corner ensuring to roll a full decking board before moving onto the next one.

Avoid overlapping previously coated sections of decking boards, this will cause an uneven, patchy look with fluctuations in colour.

Don’t make the mistake of working yourself into a corner and then having to walk over the treated timber as this will leave footprints.

Equipment Required

6 Inch Purdy Half Inch Roller Sleeve
Purdy Jumbo Mini Roller Frame
Purdy Extension Pole 2 – 4ft
5 Litre Paint Scuttle
3 Inch Paint Brush
Wooster Brush Holder
Liberon 5 x Litres Decking Oil (clear)
White Spirits

Best Deck Sealer For Pressure Treated Wood

Decking timber treatments come in both water and oil based stains, oil being the preferred choice by users. Decking oil enhances the look of the timber and ages naturally with the wood. Oil wood preserve penetrates deeper into the grain of the wood extending the life of your timber deck.

What is the best decking oil, stain for pressure treated timber? Personally from experience I would recommend Liberon Decking Oil, available in (clear, oak, teak).

Note: Remember your timber deck will naturally age (darken) so choosing a clear stain might be a good choice. You can always darken at a later stage, but you can’t lighten the timber once stained with a colour.

16 Must Have Painting Tools 

Wood Deck Rejuvenation

What about older decking? Depending on the age of your wooden decking and how often it has been treated. There is a high probability, due to our wet climate, that mold (algae) can grow (especially in shaded areas). The build up of algae, moss, dirt and grease can overtime, lead to the timber becoming slippery underfoot. 

You can purchase products that are designed to KILL mould (algae), Wet & Forget – Moss Mould Lichen & Algae Remover. While they may kill algae, you still have to remove the dead mold, dirt and grime that has built up on the surface. 

Most timber decks that have been installed several years ago will require pressure washed before treating. This will ensure that all (dirt, grime, mold) has been removed before restaining. Once the timber has been thoroughly cleaned it must be sealed shortly after to protect the wood. Remember to leave enough time to power wash and seal the deck within a few days.

TIP: Be careful when pressure washing not to damage the decking boards by holding the lance to close to the timber.

How To Preserve A New Fence

Maintaining Wood Decking

The decking in the image below was treated with Liberon Decking Oil (clear), as you can see the timber has darkened considerably after only one coat of decking oil. The size of the deck was 4m x 4m (13ft x 13ft) and took 10 litres of decking oil to apply two coats.

how to treat decking timber

After just one coat of Liberon Decking Oil

Did you find this article on “How To Treat Decking Timber” useful? check out my Blog for other helpful how to articles, painter tips and tricks.


This blog is a personal blog written and edited by me (Andrew Firth). For questions about this blog, please contact

Some posts contain affiliate links. I may earn a small commission when those links are clicked on and a product is purchased. There is no additional costs to you.

The compensation received will NEVER influence the content, topics or posts made in this blog. The views and opinions expressed on this blog are purely mine. If I claim or appear to be an expert on a certain topic or product or service area, I will only endorse products or services that I believe (based on my expertise), are worthy of such endorsement.

One of my pet peeves, MOLD, I hate the stuff, not because of the damage it causes, but the health implications that are associated with the fungus. Unfortunately mold is an all to familiar problem in the UK, due to our damp climate. Mold can grow in any area of your house, especially where there is poor ventilation and excessive moisture, so bathrooms are a particularly troublesome. Today’s article covers how to Kill Mould and the best bathroom paint to prevent mold from returning.

Mold and Your Health

Exposure to moldy environments can cause a variety of health effects. Some people are more sensitive to molds than others and can suffer from nasal stuffiness, throat irritation, coughing, wheezing, eye and skin irritation. Recent studies have suggested a potential link between the early development of asthma in children, who may be genetically susceptible to asthma.

I have personally suffered the effects from mold, so can sympathise with anyone who has been affected by mold related allergies.

Inhalational Health Effects of Mold

How To Identify Mold

Mold tends to be green or black, and feels slimy to the touch. Mold loves to grow in places with lots of moisture, leaking roofs, corners of windows, bathroom ceilings, any area where there is excess moisture. Mould can also grow in wallpaper, carpet, fabric, and upholstery.

Mold growing at the corners of window

How To KILL Mould

There are several popular chemical sprays that you can purchase for killing mould, HG Mould Remover Foam Spray and Dryzone 100 Mold Remover. But to be honest you can achieve the same results with your typical household bleach at a ratio of 50% bleach to 50% water. For example if you were to pour 100 ml of bleach into a container, dilute the bleach with the equivalent measurement of water, 100 ml.

Warning: before you start removing mold, you MUST wear a Respirator Mask to avoid breathing the harmful spores that will be released into the air during the cleaning process. It is also recommended that a pair of Safety Glasses be worn. Especially if you are working over head to protect your eyes and a pair of Rubber Gloves to protect your hands.

Rember to open a window if possible allowing for fresh air to circulate. Remove as much of the mould as possible and leave the area to dry for 24 hours before painting.

Best Bathroom Paint to Prevent Mold

Once you have killed and removed the mould, it’s time to paint. Being a fan of Zinnser paint products, I’m going to recommend a particular product designed for high moisture areas, Zinnser Perma White Interior Mould Resistant Paint. Resists cracking, peeling and blistering, scrubbable and lasts for up to 7 years, available in (matt and satin finishes).

Does Anti Mold Paint Work?

Several months ago I was contacted by a customer who had a recurring issue with her ensuite bathroom ceiling. The paint was  peeling badly, flaking and there was a considerable amount of mold growth. The issue had been fixed several times by other decorators without success, a matter of months would pass by and the problem would re-appear.

To answer the question above, does anti mould paint work? YES, if the necessary steps are taken which I’ll explain below.

How To Fix Peeling Paint

You might be interested in an earlier article I wrote on “How To Paint Over Peeling Paint” which in this particular situation has some relevance. Below were the steps taken to resolve the issue permanently.

Step 1) Paint Removal

All flaking, peeling paint was scraped from the ceiling using a Purdy 3 Inch Flex Knife. There were several cracks in the plasterboard that where scraped and opened up using a 6 in 1 Multi Tool. For safety reasons, a Respiratory Mask and Safety Glasses were worn.

Step 2) Sanding Preparation

The ceiling was thoroughly sanded using 80 grade sandpaper attached to a Mirka Deros Sander to key the surface. Once the last remnants of loose paint were removed and the edges of any existing paint were feathered.

Term, Key a Surface : Using materials such as sandpaper, wet-or-dry, sanding discs, too smooth down a surface prior to painting. To key a surface helps with absorbency for future coats of paints.

Step 3) Seal and Fill

Using a combination of CT1 Construction Adhesive and Toupret Interior Filler all cracks and imperfections were filled. I squeezed the CT1 adhesive into any deep cracks creating a waterproof seal while strengthening the plasterboard. I then skimmed over the cracks and any uneven patches with Toupret filler.

The use of an LED light especially in low light conditions helps to identify scrapes, dents, holes and any other imperfections.

Step 4) Sanding Further Prep

Same process as earlier only this time using 120 Grade sandpaper instead of 80 grade. A Mirka Deros Sander was used attached to a Mirka Extractor to remove all dust. Using your own sense of touch is the best indication of smoothness, highlighting if any additional filling and sanding is necessary.

Step 5) Perma-White Interior Paint

Zinnser perma-white mould paint can be applied directly to bare plaster without having to mist coat. Using a combination of brush and roller, apply the first coat evenly and wait 2 hours until dry. I used Scotchblue Painters Masking Tape to ensure sharp edges and stop any paint transferring onto the tiles and grout.

best bathroom paint to prevent mold

5 x coats of perma-white-anti-mould-paint (satin)

Once the paint has dried, use a 120 Grade Foam Sanding Block to key the surface lightly in preparation for the next coat of paint. Every coat of paint should subsequently be sanded before applying the next coat, this 1) Smooths the surface 2) Keys the previous layer of paint allowing for better adhesion.

As you can see from the image above the damage to the ceiling was extensive. Total time to fix was 10 hours, drying time considerably slowed the repair.

Avoid Mold In Bathrooms

Ventilation is key, most bathrooms have small fans to help in removing steam (moisture), but most are completely useless. Below are my tips to avoiding mold growth in bathrooms.

1) Open your window even if it’s just while having a bath or shower
2) If you don’t have a window, some ensuite bathrooms don’t, upgrade the extractor fan to a more powerful version
3) Use an Anti Mould Silicone to seal showers and baths
4) Coat the walls and ceiling using an anti mould paint like Zinsser Perma-White


This blog is a personal blog written and edited by me (Andrew Firth). For questions about this blog, please contact

Some posts contain affiliate links. I may earn a small commission when those links are clicked on and a product is purchased. There is no additional costs to you.

Due to wood being relatively inexpensive to purchase. Wooden fences are one of the most popular solutions to creating borders and perimeters around thousands of houses throughout the UK. While wood may not be the perfect solution considering our wet environment. Today’s article contains tips on How To Preserve A New Wood Fence that will last for years.

Preserving a New Wood Fence

Before starting to coat a new fence you must first wait until the moisture level within the wood drops to 18% or below. Most timber used in the UK for fence construction is pressure treated to preserve the wood. For this reason it is generally stored outside, which means that the timber used to construct your new fence will be saturated with water.

Pressuretreated timber is wood that has been saturated with chemical preservatives to protect the wood from rot and insects.

If you are installing individual boards on your fencing project, remember to take into consideration the moisture content in the wood. Why? because the initial gap between the fencing boards will increase as the boards dry out.

While installing a perimeter fence around my garden I purposely set a minimal gap between the fencing boards of 5mm. Once the boards where fully dry the gap increased to 15mm.

When To Treat a New Wooden Fence

New fence installations generally do not need to be treated for several months after they have been erected. You will notice over the following months that your new fence will change colour as it drys out.

Most new fences start out darker in colour with a distinctive green tinge, due the chemicals that have been infused with the timber. As they dry out, they turn a lighter colour and lose their green tinge. This is the ideal time to apply several coats of wood preservative.

How To Preserve A New Wooden Fence

New Fence 2 Months Old (NOT TREATED)

Best Wood Fence Treatment

If you are searching for a fence treatment that resists flaking, peeling and blistering with outstanding weather protection. Then Crown’s All Purpose Woodstain is an excellent choice. Available in (teak, mahogany, antique pine, light oak, dark walnut, ebony).

I have personally tested Crowns All Purpose Woodstain on my perimeter fence with great results. The fence in the image above was erected earlier this year and left to fully dry which took roughly 6 months.

After two coats of Crown All Purpose Woodstain

How To Stain A Fence Fast

If you have ever wood preserved a fence before, you will know all too well how “tedious” a job it can be. The perimeter fence in the images above took 2 hours to apply two coats (1 hour per coat) of Crown’s All Purpose Woodstain over two days. How? by using an airless paint sprayer.

I had been considering purchasing a cheap airless paint sprayer for my business, solely for the purposes of treating external wood fencing. After a little research, I decided to purchased the Wagner W 100 Electric Paint Sprayer for Wood & Metal.

Was it worth it? Absolutely, one of the best purchases I have made in a while. Spraying the fence saved me both time and provided a superior finish in comparison to a brush.

How to Treat Fence Panels

Considering treating your fence? Follow the steps below to ensure you achieve a professional finish. Using an airless sprayer is a dream in comparison to using a brush, but you still need to take a few precautions before starting to spray.

1) Ensure that you either use a new tin of wood stain or strain the preservative from an older, previously opened tin, before spraying. Airless sprayers can become blocked, to avoid this strain old woodstain first using an old pair of tights or nylon mesh paint strainers.

2) Cover bushes, shrubs, flowers and any others plants that might be in the way when spraying. Now might be good time to prune any bushes or trees that are touching the fence.

Also remember to cover any PVC frames and windows that are in close proximity of your fence. ProDec Advance Super Cling Dust Sheet is excellent for covering both plants, pvc frames and glass.

3) Use a hand brush to sweep away dust, dirt and cobwebs of the fencing panels/boards.

4) When spraying use long fluid strokes keeping the nozzle of the sprayer 6 – 8 inches away from the fence panels. If you are spraying individual boards, spray the edges first and then fill in the middle as you spray. I used a 3 inch purdy monarch paint brush to smooth out the preservative. This helped to work the woodstain into the boards and avoid runs.

Beads of water sitting of fence after treatment

How To Restain A Fence

Looking to restain an older fence? the process is the same as above with one additional step that must be completed before treating your fence. As your fence ages and due to our damp climate, green algae can grow if your fence is not treated regularly.

Algae can easily be removed using a pressure washer with a high enough PSI (pounds per square inch). Pressure washers with a PSI above 2000 will be adequate for removing algae. You can hire pressure washers by the day at any local hire store. Once you have removed all the green algae, wait until the fence is dry before following the steps above.

How Long Does A Wooden Fence Last

Wooden fences can easily last for 15 – 20 years if they are treated every couple of years. In addition to preserving your fence there are other steps that will ensure your fence lasts for years.

1) Remove any soil that may be resting against the fence, there should be a gap at the bottom of your fence to allow for air flow.

2) If possible, angle the concrete around your fence posts so that water runs away from the post rather than lying in a pool at the bottom of the fence post.

3) Trim back, trees, bushes, hedges and any other plants that are touching the fence. This will allow air to circulate, drying the fence after it becomes wet.


This blog is a personally written and edited by me (Andrew Firth). For questions about this blog, please contact

Some posts contain affiliate links. I may earn a small commission when those links are clicked on and a product is purchased. There is no additional costs to you.

The compensation received will NEVER influence the content, topics or posts made in this blog. The views and opinions expressed on this blog are purely mine.

Over the years painting houses in the UK I have learned that having the right painting tools on hand increases productivity, reduces hours spent on projects and ensures a professional finish. Below are my “Top 16 Essential Painting Tools” for both professional painters and DIY Enthusiasts. All painting tools recommended below are currently used on a daily basis at Clear Cut Painting.

1) Purdy 12 – 18 inches Adjustable Roller Frame 

Adjustable roller frames are an essential accessory to any painters arsenal. Not only can you use a variety of different size roller sleeves but swapping roller sleeves when changing colour is simple. Purdy adjustable roller frames are robust and provide support to both sides of the roller cover, allowing for an even amount of pressure to be applied to the wall or ceiling when rolling.

2) Purdy Power Lock Extension Pole 2 – 4 ft

Painters extension poles are used to extend your reach allowing you to paint all areas of a room with ease. The purdy power lock extension pole fits all purdy adjustable roller frames. Simple push the end of the extension pole into the roller frame until it clicks into place. There is a large button on the extension pole which allows for the inner sleeve to be extended.

If your planning on painting high ceilings or hallways I recommend purchasing the longer Purdy Power Lock Extension Pole 4 – 8 ft version. I own both, the small extension pole for walls and the larger 4 – 8 ft for ceiling and hallways.

3) Hamilton 12 inch Perfection Microfibre Roller Sleeve

After testing numerous roller sleeves I have settled on the Hamilton Perfection Roller Sleeve for several reasons. 1) Minimal paint spray 2) Easy and fast to clean  3) Affordable to replace 4) Leaves a smooth paint finish

There are of course other roller sleeves that will leave a slightly smoother spray like finish on walls and ceilings. For example the Purdy White Dove 3/8 nap is an excellent roller. Not as durable as the hamilton roller sleeve, takes longer to clean and costs more.

If your painting multiple rooms or a very large area then the purdy white dove is a great option. Once fully saturated in paint, the roller coverage per dip is very impressive and the finish is excellent. As most of my work are residential houses and involves swapping roller covers during colour changes, the hamilton roller sleeve ticks all the boxes.

4) Scotchblue Painters Masking Tape

My favourite masking tape, I purchase by the box, 48 rolls as I use Scotchblue masking tape on every job I am on. Why do I love it so much? 1) Simple to apply and removes without tearing 2) Stops paint from bleeding through onto the masked surface 3) Can be applied to fresh paint 4) Reduces clean up time at the end of projects.

5) Purdy Clearcut Angular Trim Paint Brush

One of the most important pieces of painting equipment a “Professional Paint Brush”. Create beautiful straight lines around ceilings, across skirting boards and around architrave with a Purdy angled paint brush. I own several 2.5 inch angled purdy brushes that I use for cutting in with emulsion paints. When painting woodwork I use the, Purdy XL elite sprig brush 2-1/2 inch.

There are 3 inch versions of both brushes available, personally for my work, I find the 2.5 inch versions perfect for most situations. 

6) Purdy Carbon Steel Joint Knife

You will probably find it necessary to purchase two flex jointing knives, one smaller Purdy 3 inch flex knife and the larger 6 inch Purdy Jointing Knife. The larger filler knife can be used to hold the mixed filler while using the smaller flex knife to fill scrapes, dinges and holes.

I tend to swap between the two flex knifes depending on the size of the area needing filled. Sections of walls that have been tracked, plug sockets that are no longer in use and uneven patches of plaster require the larger filling knife.

7) Hamilton Perfection Dusting Brush

Dust brushes are perfect for sweeping away dust that accumulates on the surface after sanding. Common uses for a painters dust brush 1) Removal of dust after sanding 2) Wiping down skirting boards, architrave, window ledges and tops of door frames.) Having a dust brush in your painter’s tool kit saves time by not having to drag out the hoover every time you sand.

Have a painting job? Check out: “How To Paint A Room Like A Professional” 

8) Clauss Auto Loading Stanley Knife

One tool that I use consistently for a variety of jobs throughout the day. You can purchase folding versions of stanley knife’s and while they serve the same purpose. I find that the non folding version provides better grip and leverage allowing for a more fluid cutting action. Jobs I use an auto loading stanley knife for include. 1) Cutting the tops of caulking and silicone tubes, 2)Removing rawl plugs from walls and plasterboard, 3) Trimming carpet 4) Scraping dried paint of roller frames


Top 16 Essential Painting Tools

This blog post on must have painting tools for professionals and DIY Enthusiasts contains affiliate links. I may earn a small commission when those links are clicked on and a product is purchased. There is no additional costs to you.

The compensation received will NEVER influence the content, topics or posts made in this blog. The views and opinions expressed on this blog are purely mine. If I claim or appear to be an expert on a certain topic, product or service area. I will only endorse products or services that I believe (based on my expertise), are worthy of such endorsement.

9) DeWalt 1800W Heat Gun with 240V Dual Air Flow

Heat guns with an adjustable thermostat serve two purposes. 1) They can strip paint of any surface fast and don’t leave a sticky residue unlike harmful chemical paint strippers 2) Adjust the temperature and they can also be used to dry patches of filler, allowing you to continue painting.

The Dewalt Heat Gun also comes with a handy feature allowing you to stand the gun on its base keeping the hot metal elements away from flammable materials.

10) Mini Paint Scuttle 5 Litre Capacity

There are plenty of situations when painting a room that a mini paint scuttle will come in handy. Painting directly from the tin is never a good idea for several reasons 1) Dirt and dust can be picked up on the brush and contaminate the paint. 2) Accidents can happen, knocking over 2.5 litres of an oil based paint would be a disaster. 3) 5 litre rectangular paint scuttles allow both brush and mini roller to be used, circular paint scuttles do not.

For ease of use, transfer a small amount of paint into the mini scuttle. Try and avoid tipping any unused paint back into the tin.

11) Microfibre Mini Rollers 4 Inch and Frame

I’ll admit that when purchasing painting tools I tend to go for quality brands rather than cheaper alternatives. In most cases the quality and performance justifies the cost. Unfortunately I can’t say the same for mini rollers sleeves, I honestly prefer the cheaper microfibre 4 inch sleeves.

They are super versatile, can be used with most paints, are inexpensive and deliver excellent results. Plus, if I accidently forgot to wash one, it’s not end of the world. Most suppliers sell them in packs of 5 or 10 and include a mini roller frame. I use them for back rolling after cutting in and for painting large surfaces, (doors, shelves, deep skirtings).

12) Purdy Painters Multi Tool

When you need robust reliable tool for a combination of jobs, purdy multi tools are perfect for the task. While I don’t fully utilise every feature on the tool. I do use the multi tool for, 1) Removing old caulk and silicone 2) Opening paint tins 3) Chiseling 4) Scraping 5) Removing nails and rawl plugs.


13) Paint Mixing Paddle

There are several reasons you will need a paint mixer. Coloured paints, unless mixed and applied on the same day will need mixed again before application. If you are mist coating fresh plaster with contract matt emulsion, you will need to dilute the paint with water. Attempting to mix paint by hand is a long tiring process especially if your mixing a large amount. Paint paddle’s are inexpensive, attach directly onto a cordless drill and mix paint effortlessly.

14) Swivel Pole Sander 

Preparation is the key to painting a room like a professional, sanding the walls and ceiling are major part of the preparation process. I use a swivel pole sander attached to a purdy extension pole in combination with a hand sander to reach all areas of a room. You might be surprised to know that even freshly plastered walls and ceilings will still require sanding prior to the finishing coats of paint.

In most cases 120 grade sandpaper is adequate to get the job done. Simply trim as required and loosen the securing clamps to fit the sandpaper.

15) Werner Fibreglass Swingback Stepladder-6 Tread

I think it’s safe to say that most households own a set of step ladders. If you don’t you will need a set for cutting in around ceilings, mouldings and architrave. I highly recommend Werner’s Fibreglass 6 Run Step Ladders, they are bulletproof. Manufactured from fibreglass, so they will not rust, you can store them outside or if your a professional painter on top of your van.

16) Premium Coated Cotton Dust Sheet 12 x 9ft

Last but not least in my Top 16 essential painting tools are dust sheets, also referred to as drop cloths. There are several types of dust sheets available, (basic twill dust sheet, polythene, polythene-backed and heavy duty cotton twill). All of them will protect your furniture and flooring from paint spray and paint spills, except the basic cotton twill.

For painting and decorating purposes you will need a heavy duty tight woven drop cloth or coated cotton dust sheet. Both will STOP dust and paint from penetrating the surfaces below. Polythene-backed dust sheets are adequate for covering furniture but will slip on tile and laminate flooring. Dust sheets come in a variety of sizes, (12 x 12, 12 x 9, 9 x 9, 24 x 3), for an average sized room, several 12 x 9 dust sheets would be sufficient to cover both furniture and floor.

Another option which I personally use for kitchen painting is ProDec Super Cling Dust Sheet. The advantage to using a cling film dust sheet is its lightweight and naturally clings to all flat surfaces without having to use excessive amounts of masking tape. Super cling film dust sheet comes in a large roll which can be trimmed to the required size.

Top 16 Essential Painting Tools

I hope that you found the information in my Top 16 Essential Painting Tools helpful. You might also be interested in two earlier articles I wrote on How To Paint Matt Over Silk Emulsion and How To Paint Over Flaking Or Peeling Paint.

Clear Cut Painting is a professional decorating firm based in Northern Ireland, UK. All Painting equipment recommended in this article are used on a daily basis, which greatly assists myself in delivering professional interior painting finishes.

If you have ever wondered how to paint a door (interior or exterior) without leaving brush marks? then continue reading. There are various steps in achieving a professional brushless finish. Painting a door without brush marks is a relatively simple process as long as you follow the advice below.

Painting a Door Without Removing It

Should I remove the door before painting? there is a simple answer to the question. Are you confident that you can rehang the door after you have finished painting. Do you have the available space and equipment (Saw Horses) to rest the door onto? If the answer is NO, then leave the door where it is, you can achieve a professional finish without removing the door.

I generally do not remove doors before painting, unless 1) The door needs repaired 2) The door is being stripped, all existing paint removed using a Heat Gun.

What you will need though, when painting a hung door is a Door Wedge to stop the door from swinging back and forth. Also ensure that you remove the door hardware (door handles), if your a novice painter, mask off the hinges with Scotchblue Masking Tape.

How To Paint a New Door

All wooden doors (bare wood) will need to be primed before any further coats of paint can be applied. This is an essential step that must not be skipped. Primer paint allows the tops coats of paint to adhere to the surface better. Primer is designed to seal new wood preventing the underlying wood from prematurely absorbing the solvents in the finishing paint. Priming bare wood also stops knots from bleeding through your new paint work.

On new wooden doors I use Zinsser Bullseye 123 Primer Sealer. Apply two coats, dilute the first coat of primer with water at a ratio of 10:1. This will allow the primer to soak thoroughly into the grain, sealing the wood. Before applying the second coat of primer, sand the door using a Foam Sanding Block 120 Grade.

Brush away all dust and prime the door again with the final coat, (do not dilute). Your door should be smooth to the touch, ready for the next coat of paint which is your undercoat.

Zinnser Bullseye 123 Water Based Primer can be applied with a brush, roller or sprayed. I use both a brush and mini roller for painting doors, regardless of whether I’m using a, (primer, undercoat or finishing coats). Using a brush and roller combination is fast and provides a superior finish, free from brush marks. I’ll explain more on the technique involved in painting a door without brush marks a little later.

Best Tools For Painting a Door

You really don’t need many tools to achieve a great finish on doors. Below is small list of tools that I use daily at Clear Cut Painting.

Painting A Door Without Brush Marks

Part of the process to avoiding unsightly brush marks is painting your door in the correct order ensuring even paint distribution. Most doors either have 2, 4 or 6 panel configurations, the process I’m going to explain applies to all variations.

You will notice in the diagram below arrows pointing to sections on the door, both brush and roller are used depending on the portion of the door being painted.

1) The first area to paint is the door jamb (door jambs are the sides of the door frame that run vertically). Use your brush to paint approximately a 1 inch section top and bottom, then roll the remainder of the edge with your mini roller.

2) Next are the beveled edges surrounding each panel, use your Purdy Brush to paint this area ensuring that you paint with the grain. Avoid using to much paint as it will pool in each corner of the lower bevel.

3) Now that all the beveled edges are painted, use your mini roller to paint the face of the panels, remember always working with the grain.

4) Lastly are the panels that create the frame of the door, use just the mini roller to finish applying the paint. Use long, fluid strokes with an even amount of pressure to create a spray like finish.

Always thoroughly sand the the door after applying each coat of paint. Sanding helps to key the surface helping the next layer of painting stick to the surface. Sanding between coats will ensure a spray like finish. Use a Painters Dusting Brush in combination with a damp cloth to remove all dust before painting.

How many coats of paint will a new door require? Painting a new wooden door like a pro will require 4 – 6 coats of paint,  (primer, undercoat, top coats). Previously painted doors will require 3 – 4 coats of paint (undercoat, topcoats), but may still require priming depending on the circumstances.

Painting a Door Tips and Tricks

If there was just one additional tip to painting doors without brush marks. I would highly recommend using a product called Owatrol Floetrol Paint Additive. It’s essentially a paint conditioner that improves the flow of paint, helping to keep a wet edge. Floetrol is designed to be used with water based paint products for the purpose of eliminating brush and roller marks.

Paint conditioners give both professional painters and novices extending working time. Most paints are self leveling to a degree, which can be improved with, good brushes, the right choice of roller cover, good technique and paint additives to help with paint flow, (laying off).

Laying off: the redistribute of paint in a more uniform fashion. This technique can be used with both brush and roller, personally from experience, I find that when painting a door without brush marks. Use your brush to access the areas a mini roller cannot and finish with a Ultra Smooth Mini Roller Nap in combination with a paint conditioner.

This blog is a personal blog written and edited by me (Andrew Firth). For questions about this blog, please contact Some posts contain amazon affiliate links. I may earn a small commission when those links are clicked on and a product is purchased.
There is no additional costs to you. The compensation received will NEVER influence the content, topics or posts made in this blog. The views and opinions expressed on this blog are purely mine.

A common question asked by many homeowners “How to paint a room like professional”. Painting doesn’t’ have to be as daunting as you may think. If you follow the steps that I have laid out below in the correct order, I can guarantee that you will achieve a professional paint finish.

Painters Tip: Never purchase the colour for your room directly of a colour chart. Purchase tester pots and test patch the colour, then look at the sample colours over a 24 – 48 period before making your final decision. 

Preparing A Room For Painting

Clear as many items from the room your are intending to paint. These would include (curtains, curtain pole, pictures, furniture, electronics). Try and think of a blank canvas, if you are unable to move large items out of the room, then move them into the middle of the floor and cover with a Polyethylene-Backed Dust Sheet, this will ensure that no paint ends up on your furniture.

It’s always a good idea to fit any new flooring before you redecorate, apart from carpet which is fitted after.

Once the room is cleared, cover anything that is not intentionally being painted. I highly recommend using Scotchblue Painters Masking Tape to tape of any areas that may get covered in paint, this includes (skirting boards, architrave, plug sockets, wall lights, smoke alarms).

Repair Cracks In Plaster Walls & Ceilings

Now that the room has been cleared and everything that is not being painted has been masked off. It’s time to fill any, scrapes, cracks and holes that are visible on the walls and ceiling.

Painters Tip: Use an LED torch, shine the light upwards against the wall or across the surface of the ceiling to highlight and gouges, scrapes, cracks and holes. When it comes to choosing good decorators filler, I highly recommend Toupret Interior Filler, used by most professionals, mixes effortlessly, easy to sand and doesn’t flash.

Pour some filler into a Flexible Mixing Bowl, and add a little water, mix until you reach a smooth consistency. The filler should stick to your flex knife when turned upside down.

Once the filler is mixed, use two jointing knives, Purdy 6 inch Flex Joint Knife and Purdy 3 inch Joint Knife. The larger knife holds the mixed filler while you use the smaller 3 inch knife to fill any discrepancies in the walls and ceiling. You should hold the torch and the larger filler knife in one hand while working with the other.

how to paint a room like a professional

Sanding Walls Before Painting

Most reputable painters will ensure that all areas of a room (walls, ceiling, woodwork) are thoroughly sanded. This is a key element in preparing a room for painting, there are several ways to sand a room before painting.

Painters Tip: Sandpaper is commonly graded as Coarse (40 – 60), Medium (80 – 120), Fine (150 – 180). For sanding walls, ceilings and woodwork, 120 grade sandpaper is perfect for the job.

For woodwork I use a 120 Grade Foam Sanding Block as it molds to the contours the wood.

Related Article: Best Random Orbital Sander For Walls & Ceilings

What Do I Need To Paint A Room

Paint like a professional with the right tools, below I have comprised a painters tool list. I personally use all the painting tools listed on a daily basis to achieve a professional finish on walls and ceilings.

How to paint a room like a professional hinges in my opinion on three key elements. 1) Rigorous preparation 2) Professional painting tools 3) Quality paints.

What Order To Paint A Room

There are mixed opinions on what to paint in a room first. Below is how I achieve a professional paint finish.

1) Ceilings first, this will ensure that any paint splatter doesn’t end up on your freshly painted walls. You will find it easier to cut in the walls after the ceiling has been painted.

2) Sand all woodwork, (skirting boards, architrave, window sills) using a 120 Grade Foam Sanding Block. Brush away any dust using a Painters Dust Brush or hoover.

3) Caulk all the edges of skirting boards and architrave to hide any gaps left between the trim and wall.

4) Wipe down all woodwork with a damp cloth then prime using Zinsser Bullseye 123 Primer, wait until dry.

5) Lightly rub down all woodwork using a 120 grade foam block and wipe clean. Then apply the first top coat of paint, (eggshell, satin, gloss). Wait until dry and repeat the process applying a second top coat of paint. 

6) Leave woodwork to dry for a minimum of 24 hours, then tape all edges using Scotchblue Masking Tape.

How To Paint A Room Like A Professional

Woodwork taped creating a paint shield

7) Cut in edges around ceiling, skirting boards and architrave, then roller the walls to finish.

8) Remove masking tape and admire your professional paint finish.

How To Cut In Paint Like A Pro

A good paint brush is an essential part of cutting in, I highly recommend purchasing an Angular Paint Brush. Dip your brush into the paint and tap each side of you paint tin or paint scuttle to remove the excess paint.

Place your brush 1/2 inch away from your cut in line, apply a little pressure and gradually move the brush in towards the line. Once the bristles met the line, drag downwards or across with an even amount of pressure. The bristles on a good brush will naturally track the edge of the wall or ceiling.

Painters Tip: I find it beneficial to control breathing (shallow breaths) while cutting in paint.

After you have cut in a section of wall or ceiling, backroll the fresh paint using a 4 Inch Microfibre Roller. This removes brush marks and ensures an even paint texture.

how to paint a room

Cutting in paint tools

How To Paint Walls Professionally

Acquiring a flawless paint finish on walls and ceilings has a lot do with the type of roller used. Smooth, 3/8 nap roller sleeves are best for a smooth finish.

I would recommend either of the following paint roller sleeves. Minimum paint spray, no lint, fine finish.

When rolling a wall or ceiling it is important to remember to use long fluid vertical strokes. Start in the middle and roll to the top, then all the way to the bottom. Overlap each paint section you roll by about 6 inches.

Let the roller do the work, you don’t need to apply to much pressure, excess pressure and the edge of the roller will leave a line (streak).

If you notice any paint lines left by the edge of roller, before they dry. Place the roller over the line and with light pressure roll to remove. Leave the wall, ceiling to fully dry before painting your second coat of paint.

How To Paint A Room Like A Professional

Interior painting tips and tricks

  • Paint an area, (wall, ceiling) to completion without stopping, this helps to keep a wet edge and uniformed drying.
  • Use Zinsser 123 Bullseye Primer on bare woodwork or areas of flaking paint.
  • Although not required as Toupret Interior Filler doesn’t flash when painted, I personally think it’s good practice to prime any fresh areas of filler with a light coat of paint before applying the final coat.
  • Painters Acrylic Caulk is extremely useful for filling and smoothing out uneven edges around skirting boards, architrave and ceilings. Please note that you cannot paint over painters caulk with emulsion paint, it will always crack giving a unprofessional finish. Use a primer, Zinsser 123 Bulls Eye or an undercoat before applying emulsion paint.
  • Avoid purchasing cheap brushes and roller sleeves. A good paint brush and roller sleeve make all the difference to the end finish.

How Long To Paint A Room

Assuming that the walls, ceiling and woodwork are structurally sound and do not need any major repairs. The average sized room 16ft x 12ft would take 2 days to paint professionally. This includes sanding walls, ceiling and woodwork, both the ceiling and walls would be given two coats of paint (minimum). Woodwork would be primed and two top coats of paint applied.

Painting over dark colours will generally require an additional coat of paint. If your planning on using designer paint, (little green, farrow & ball, designers guild, laura ashley).

I recommend using a cheap contract emulsion to base coat the entire room before painting your tops coats of emulsion paint.

Best Paint For Walls UK

When purchasing paint, try locate one of the well known manufactures, Crown, Dulux, Johnstons. Avoid purchasing cheap paint that may be on offer from your local home depot store. If you have the budget, I highly recommend Little Greene Intelligent Matt Emulsion and their Intelligent Eggshell for woodwork. One of the best washable paint finishes available in a beautiful range of colors.

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